I have been completely drained of energy since our return on a Thursday night red-eye flight after a fun yet exhausting five day trip to Maui, Hawaii. Part of it is probably jet-lag, another part is that I’m 44 and finally I’m most likely in an energy deficit since the trip was nonstop activity for me and the family.
The overriding impression I have of Maui is just how rustic it is compared to my only other Hawaiian experience which was my marriage in Waikiki over 13 years ago. Waikiki, being a neighborhood in the capital Honolulu is fully developed and I cannot recall seeing anything that made me think otherwise. However, in Maui it seemed almost like a wilderness with small pockets of development here and there. There were wild chickens and roosters everywhere. Ninety-five percent of the island seems to be forest, mountain and volcano as the roads mainly run along the coasts and up the middle.
We arrived in the evening and my first concern was the rental car. I still have Executive status from National and was really hoping a Jeep would be available in the Executive Isle. I was not disappointed as there was a beautiful red Jeep waiting for us. It was really nice driving with the top down although after a while the sun seems relentless except for when storms are threatened. There were more than a few times I took the top off only to put it back on half an hour later as the weather changes dramatically depending on which part of the island you’re on.
After the Jeep was secured we went straight to our rented condo in between Kaanapali and Kapalua. It wasn’t a fancy resort such as most tourists stay in when visiting exotic places but it did not disappoint in the least. The beauty of Hawaii was perhaps even more prevalent in this humble condo as one could step right outside the patio onto the grass, seven steps to the pool and then just twenty or so steps to the ocean. Resorts seem so sterile to me as well as overcrowded with tourists, especially the elderly. These people are looking for a ‘resort’ experience with a controlled, diluted doses of the culture. Resorts are the same everywhere, whether you’re in Hawaii, Jamaica, Mexico or anywhere else. Only the skin-tone and English accents change in the resorts from country to country. For someone like me who has lived in other countries, I want to experience the country and people to the fullest, not be stuck in some resort speaking to other Americans who think they know everything about the country we’re in. But I’ve gotten off track.
One great aspect of having a condo is we had a kitchen as well as a beautiful grilling area just thirty steps away past the pool. We enjoyed sitting on the patio of our condo for breakfast and some dinners without always having to eat out. I particularly enjoyed drinking beer on the patio in the evenings whilst listening to the wind through the palm trees. My youngest son even mentioned the trees and how peaceful they were with the breeze gently rocking the palms back and forth.
The following morning we headed north to the Nakalele blowhole. As usual I did my studying and saw that taking the “Acid War Zone Trail” was a great way to get to the blowhole. As I mentioned above, Maui seems so undeveloped compared to my previous Hawaiian experience and this first adventure was no exception. There isn’t much in the way of signage and the trail itself isn’t really defined. This lead to a little confusion, some advanced scouting and quite a bit of questioning if we could even take certain ways where there didn’t appear to be any path at all? I would say it is not for your average tourist who typically wants paved walkways and to just snap a picture or two. The path took more than a bit of exertion as well as caution but in the end I’m glad we did it. We were able to see some pretty cool landscapes although once was probably enough for my wife on a path like this.
As you can see a lot of the land looks like Mars, or as the name suggests, was devastated by a war using acid. We eventually made it to the Nakalele blowhole but unfortunately it was low-tide and the hole wasn’t blowing very much. We did see a few sprays but on the overall this is probably something I would have skipped if it were up to me.
Honolua Bay
Next it was to Honolua Bay for snorkeling. Again, Maui ran against my expectations as although this is a famous place for snorkeling it is completely undeveloped. There is only a dirt parking lot, plenty of chickens, a long dirt path to the beach and then the beach is full of rocks, not sand! I should mention we were very lucky to get a parking spot as parking is very limited and the beach quite popular! Before I get to the incredible snorkeling experience there was a sign that really struck me as I am fascinated with time and history.
When I saw that sign I think of how many unmarked graves Hawaii must have given that the earliest archeological records date back to 450 AD. These people must have lived in peace for 700 years until the Tahitians came and found these original inhabitants to be very primitive. However, these people are descendants from the voyagers who travelled across a vast amount of ocean from Asia to find these islands. That doesn’t sound very primitive to me! The imagination is sparked by watching Neil deGrass Tyson’s Cosmos where he speaks of these voyagers: crossing such an immense ocean to find such tiny islands is akin to us looking to venture into space to find new solar systems and planets. I’m fascinated by these “primitive” Hawaiians as well as the long periods of isolation they and succeeding waves of voyagers would have had on these islands. I spent a good part of the trip thinking about these people as well as original Hawaiian culture before the arrival of the Europeans. Their entire world was just a few islands surrounded by infinite sea. I wonder what legends they would have had which referenced those original voyagers. Would they be mythical, with perhaps a divine status as often happens with many founders of religions? Or would these original Hawaiians remember through oral tradition where and who they are descended from? In any case, the answers to these questions go far beyond the guidebooks or even basic history of Hawaii.
Well, I think I’m one of the few tourists that would have reflected on the ancient Hawaiians by seeing that unmarked graves sign. Honolua Bay is not popular for unmarked graves but for snorkeling. I’ve never been a big snorkeler and didn’t know how amazing it could be. At first It thought it was rather boring but then my son and I discovered why this place is so popular. One shouldn’t snorkel in the middle of the bay but on its coasts where the coral reef and accompanying fish are spectacular! I was really taken aback when we finally discovered this after a half an hour of looking in the wrong place.
Again, the bay is not “developed” as there is a dirt parking lot, a long dirt trail to the “beach” and the “beach” if full of rocks. One cannot even get into the ocean without stepping on many slippery rocks and I cannot imagine how many tourists have fallen and gotten hurt there. My son even slipped and fell but luckily was not hurt. Once you’re in the water you have to watch out for the waves which could slam you back onto the rocks so again, Maui has many popular spots but so many remain in their natural state with almost zero accommodations for tourists.
Kaanapali
I had no expectations of Kaanapali as I didn’t know what was there except for my wife’s description of a nice beach. Our first experience was that parking was tough as this a fancy resort place and we weren’t staying at any of the resorts. We ended up parking at the far end of the beach and then discovered the walkway which wound past the exclusive pools, hammocks and cabanas of those who don’t mind spending $800 a night for the sterile resort experience. My wife wanted to see the beach which was pretty with plenty of white sand and a calm blue ocean. After deciding we didn’t need to sit on yet another beach we made our way to a restaurant called Leilani’s on the Beach. It was nice, especially with the beach ambiance and live Hawaiian music but the food was pretty average. I wouldn’t mind spending some time drinking there but with a family that really isn’t an option.
Afterwards it was back to the condo for pool time, seeing sea turtles swimming in the ocean right next to our property and grilling some meat whilst drinking beer.
Makawao
The next morning we headed for two small towns, Makawao and Paia. We started off disappointed with Makawao as we had hoped to visit Komoda Store and Bakery to try the donuts and cream puffs but unfortunately they were closed. Since there was no signage we walked right past it not once but twice until we finally figured it out.
The town is very small and charming so we took a little walk. We first went into Sherry Reeve Gallery and Gifts where my my wife and boys each picked out a piece of art. Then at the shopkeepers suggestion we went to The Maui Cookie Lady and this was a fantastic magical little nook of a store. The cookies are indeed phenomenal but it was the ambiance that really caught my attention. Looking at my pictures I wish I would have taken a wide picture but looks like I forgot to do so thus we’ll just have to make due with this one.
After Makawao we went up to Paia but decided not to stop continuing on to Ho’okipa beach for more sea turtle viewing. I would have thought the turtles we saw near our condo would have been sufficient but I was not in control of the site-seeing schedule. There were plenty of turtles indeed but I thought the view from the volcanic outcropping was the best.
Since we were on California time we always got an early start on the day so even though we’d been to two destinations on a different part of the island already it was still only midday with plenty of time for other activities. For lunch we went to Star Noodle in Lahina. This is a popular place but again the food was just OK, nothing to write home about. Afterwards we were pleasantly surprised by a beach recommended to us by others staying at the resort. It was called Baby Beach” and was perfect for our needs!
My youngest was too scared to snorkel in the deep water of Honolua Bay. This was sad because he was the most excited to receive his snorkeling gear and he even practiced in the bathtub. For him Baby Beach was perfect as it was pretty shallow but had plenty to see underwater. Both of my boys spent upwards of an hour swimming around and taking in all there was to see in that place. As a dad you want to create special experiences for your kids and this certainly did that for my youngest.
After the beach my wife was adamant they go get some “shave ice” at Ululani’s Shave Ice. As for me I could do without the ice and preferred some Hawaiian rum! So while they waited in a long line for the “shave ice” I went to Safeway and got some Koloa Coconut Rum. I also picked up some Pina Colada mix but it didn’t taste very good. To make a really good cocktail you have to do it right and not take the easy way out of just mixing rum, mixture and ice, it doesn’t work well. Then it was back home for another evening in the pool, and sitting on the patio.
The Road to Hana
The road to Hana is an experience indeed. The only thing we knew of it before going was that it often causes people to get motion sickness and throw up due the over 600 twists and turns. As I mentioned I was surprised to see how undeveloped Maui is and if I was surprised by the western side of the island then I was extremely surprised by the eastern side. Practically all of it is the Haleakalā volcano surrounded by forest reserves with only a tiny road encircling the entire eastern side. The northern road is the “Road to Hana”
I began watching YouTube videos to understand what this road was all about and was advised to download the Road to Hana audio guide from GypsyGuide. I’m very glad I did because it is like having your own personal tour guide. The app uses geolocation so the audio guide knows exactly where you are. On the return it also gives a wonderful account of the history of Hawaii so doesn’t repeat the same information.
This road is unlike any I’ve been on before. It is often one way, especially over the small bridges and takes you through an exotic jungle, such as was inspiration for the film Jurassic Park. Those YouTube videos I watched were right in that it takes at least three days to see what there is to offer there. As for us, we were doing a day trip and that wasn’t going to change. One day perhaps I’d like to take a closer look but in the end it is basically waterfalls, bamboo, beautiful vistas of the jungle/ocean and so on.
Here is where we stopped:
Keanae
Beautiful views and one must purchase Aunty Sandy’s Banana Bread. Our audio guide also told us of the tragedy of a tsunami that wiped out that very spot and killed many people. The only thing left standing was the church as it is built of volcanic rock.
Nahiku Marketplace
We came across a small roadside marketplace reminiscent of something you’d find in the third world. True to the word of the guide the place had fallen on hard times due to COVID with many of the stalls being empty. In fact, we had arrived too early and nothing was even open yet.
In what reminded me of the movie Spirited Away we came across a huge grill with probably 20 pieces of meat being barbecued giving off great plumes of smoke. It smelled great and we would have loved to purchase but unfortunately we were half an hour too early. Since we didn’t want to waste 30 minutes waiting for food we left and that was the extent of our experience with Nahiku marketplace.
Wai’ānapanapa Park
The wife wanted to see the black sand beach. I would have been OK with not seeing a beach with black sand but as I wasn’t in charge of the itinerary we stopped. It was indeed a beach with black sand and rocks!
I thought I might take a black rock for a souvenir but was advised by the sign below that bad luck would ensue. I am only slightly superstitious but threw my rock back because I respect the will of the locals. It is the same when I was on Mt. Fuji. I would have liked to take a rock but as it is a sacred mountain I respect the locals wishes.
Although I wasn’t impressed with the beach and its popularity with tourists I did think taking my boys in the lava tube as well as the overall scenic view were both very nice.
What struck me the most however was not the beauty of the place but of the graveyards made from volcanic rock. I wondered about the people at rest there and what their lives were like. How old were the graves and why was that place chosen particularly? Perhaps it is atop an older burial grounds with hundreds of years of unmarked graves? I am always fascinated by graveyards because within each grave lies someone who was born, nurtured by a mother, was a child who grew up had many experiences and perhaps children of their own, then died. And there they lay soon to be forgotten after only a few hundred years at best. Looking over the graveyard I contemplate that for a moment, say hello in my mind and then move along.
Hana
As for the town of Hana itself it really is nothing more than a small, isolated island town. It seems all the attractions are in the parks, hiking trails and ocean, not so much the town itself. Therefore, I don’t even have any pictures except for one taken at Braddah Hutts BBQ Grill. Again, Maui can be very much like the third world and to our surprise it was nothing more than a food truck run by native Hawaiians who lived on the property. The food was fantastic however and I was glad we had chosen that place to eat instead of some sterile restaurant. Not that I believe there are any AppleBees or the like in the town of Hana.
To return, I would have liked to continue taking the southern road but our audio tour guide discouraged that. He said the road could be difficult and may violate rental car agreements. If a breakdown were to happen then it would costs thousands of dollars to get a tow truck out there. I wish I would have taken that road but then again I’m not sure if there really would be anything much different to see.
Lahaina
On the final day our flight didn’t leave until 10:00 PM which means we had the entire day to do what we’d like. The first place we stopped was the Lahaina Jodo Mission. Given that my family is fully/partly Japanese we like to see the influences of Japanese culture should they be present.
Standing on the beach in Lahaina
Shinko Kishi – Archbishop of Jodo Shu, Chief Abbot of Chion-in Temple.
As the sun’s crimson shaft
Settles down past the distant isle.
We then had lunch at Down the Hatch which was delicious with a nice ambiance. I’m quite a tough customer when it comes to restaurants because unless the place is really high end, I’m usually left disappointed especially given high prices. Down the Hatch was delicious though so I give them credit and an highly recommended rating!
With me however I’m more excited by history than the food and enjoyed a walk through the historic courthouse although my family didn’t give me enough time! I did figure out what was going on with the Hawaiian flag however as I was curious why there was a Union Jack in it.
I was very surprised to learn about the relationship between Hawaii and England. Especially the five month occupation by English Captain Lord George Paulet. England isn’t exactly known for respecting the sovereignty of nations nor giving territory they occupy back during their imperial reign of the high seas now are they? But after a five minute consultation with Wikipedia it seems American warships had something to do with the British decision to relinquish their occupation rather than the will of the Hawaiians. Something to study for the future.
Did I mention that I also found Jesus in Maui? I mean literally!
It was then off to the Maui Tropical Plantation. The wife really just wanted to snap a few pictures and have a look around. To experience this place as it is supposed to be done one must sign up for the tour. The grounds were lovely but what got me was the weather. The sky was dark and the wind blowing ferociously as though perhaps a typhoon was approaching. The differences in weather from one part of the island to the other are phenomenal. We were just in the sun in Lahaina and now we were about to get dumped on with rain then blown away by incredible trade winds.
Enjoying the threatening weather I would look up to the mountain to the left side and wonder what secrets lay hidden in them. The ancients were here undisturbed for hundreds of years so could there possibly be burial grounds up there, or settlements long since disappeared? I suppose if there were it wouldn’t be something that those in the know would want tourists to know about.
After that we were out of things to do for the most part but still had many hours until our flight home. So we drove down to the southern end, parked on sand next to the beach and rested a bit. It was good that we were in a Jeep 4 wheel drive because without it we would have been stuck in that stand. We stayed there for about an hour and then decided we should do something else.
We started to drive to Wailea as that was perhaps the only place on the island we had not yet been and is where our friends stay so we were curious. We never made it down to the resort section instead deciding to check out a very bohemian section of town at Kīhei Kalama village. This place definitely reminded me of the third world, Binh Than Market in Saigon to be exact, with its many tiny individual stalls covered by a huge roof. There were also one or two bars/ restaurants tucked away in there like a secret hangout for the cool hipsters; an area where the moneyed resort dwellers would never find.
This post has turned into a novel and it seems I can never get to the end of it. Before the airport however there was one final place we were advised to visit and that was the food truck park near Costco. Yes, the food was great, yes I’m now weigh eight pounds more than I should, but it is a must? I’d say no, it is a food truck park, as advertised, albeit one with great food nothing more.
In the end, I was happy my family had a great time and I got to see so much. For me, I did really enjoy the snorkeling but would have been quite content to sip fruity alcoholic drinks on the beach taking in the beauty, and swimming in the ocean half of the time while the other half would be spent in those bohemian bars meeting bohemians and locals to swap experiences and learn from each other. But with a Japanese wife there is always MUCH to see and with kids, well, they don’t enjoy meeting bohemians nor do they have many life stories to swap just yet so sacrifices must be made and I must make sure to put my family’s enjoyment over my own.
